Glycolic vs Lactic Acid: How to Choose

Chemical exfoliation relies on the use of alpha hydroxy acids to dissolve the bonds holding dead cells to the surface of the skin. Glycolic and lactic acid are the two most common options, each offering a distinct experience based on its molecular structure. Choosing between them is a matter of understanding penetration depth and your personal reaction to the application.

Selecting the incorrect strength or acid type leads to unnecessary irritation. This guide outlines the necessary steps to incorporate these ingredients safely into your routine.

1. Cleanse the skin thoroughly. Use a mild, non-exfoliating cleanser to remove all traces of oil and residue. Rinse with lukewarm water until the surface is clean. Pat the skin completely dry with a clean towel before proceeding to the next step.
2. Apply the chosen acid. Dispense a small amount of the product onto your fingertips or a cotton pad. Gently sweep it across the face in even strokes. Avoid the immediate eye area and the lips. Do not layer other active products immediately afterward.
3. Allow for absorption. Wait for the product to absorb fully into the skin. The surface should feel dry to the touch before moving on. Do not rinse the product off unless the label specifically directs you to do so.
4. Seal with a simple moisturizer. Apply a basic, fragrance-free moisturizer to the skin to prevent transepidermal water loss. Ensure the moisturizer does not contain additional exfoliating agents. This layer creates a barrier that keeps the skin comfortable.
5. Morning protection. The morning after application, ensure you use a broad-spectrum physical sunscreen of at least SPF 30. Chemical exfoliation exposes newer skin cells that are more vulnerable to environmental light. Reapply sunscreen as directed throughout the day.

The smaller the molecule, the faster the penetration and the higher the risk of irritation.